Seed Saving for the Future:
Protecting Diversity &
Building Community
Since the beginning of agriculture farmers have been saving seed for the next growing season. With our shift away from gardening and sustainable farming, seed saving shifted to a corporate activity. All the while, some gardeners were saving their seeds. Since the resurgence of organic and sustainable farming, seed saving is coming back. We are blessed to have seed banks and companies specializing in open pollinated and heirloom seeds. And now, even small-scale gardeners are saving seeds.
Sharing and trading seeds is a very important aspect to protecting and sustaining the diversity of seeds. For urban gardeners, who have small populations, sharing seeds is even more important.
The Basics
Benefits of seed saving:
Diversity of species
Plants get to know their environment (they feel at home after generations)
Save money
Old varieties harvest may be spread over several years.
Heirloom Seeds: Seeds saved in the same location for generations
Seed Swapping: Introduces new genetic material into DNA. If you are saving from fewer plants it’s a good idea to swap seeds with someone else to introduce
Hybrids
They are the offspring of two “pure lines”, they are not open pollinated.
Offspring will be sterile or very different from parent.
Somatic fusion (genetic modification in which two species are fused together) is becoming more common in producing Hybrids and is acceptable under organic regulations (though has been categorize as GE by the German Federation of Plant Breeders).
Evolution of Species and Varieties
Many garden plants share the same species. All Brassicas are in the same species, for example. Over many years humans cultivated them to become different varieties by selecting specific characteristics (kohl rabi’s broad stem, broccoli’s tight buds).
Steps to Save Seeds
Life cycle: Annual or Biennial
Selfing or Outbreeding
Self-pollinating species have little risk of crossing with other varieties.
Outbreeding species grown within certain distance may cross pollinate.
Distance
If you are growing outbreeding species for seed saving, varieties need to be spaced apart so that pollinators do not carry pollen from one plant to another. In the cities, there are many more obstacles and plants that might intercept the pollinators between yards.
Population Size
A greater diversity of genetic traits results in stronger offspring. What’s the ideal minimum population?
Species
To what species does it belong and what might it cross with?
Selection criteria and Disease
What traits are you looking to select for? What diseases is this plant susceptible to and do you need to avoid?
http://blog.seedsavers.org/assessing-seed-maturity/?_ga=1.102284295.72100924.1348678941
With Fermentation: tomatoes and cucumbers- to remove the germination-inhibiting sac surrounding the seed. Remove the seeds and place in a glass jar with a little water. Cover jar with cloth. Observe closely. *if the seed germinates now it won’t keep* when the coating is gone, the seed will feel rough to the touch (no longer slippery) and may sink to the bottom. Fermentation is complete when seeds have separated from the pulp. *Clean seeds* Dry as quickly as possible.
Without Fermentation: this process is to separate the seed from the fruit. The seed is rinsed in sieve under running water. May be soaked for 12+ hrs to release the fruit from the seed.
Dry Processing:
Seeds dry on the plant: beans, peas, grains, peppers
Dry seeds indoors: cut and spread on screens: brassicas, lettuce, arugula
Transplant to pots to finish ripening frost-free indoors
Dry harvested seeds: spread on screens, on towels, on plates and set in a place with low-humidity, good airflow, and under 95 degrees for a week.
Tips for Growing for Seed
Sun and warmth- more than usual for some plants
Nutrients- sufficient nutrients (not too much nitrogen)
Water- reduce watering after flowering period is over; for roots reduce water in fall makes for better storage; some crops should be covered with a tarp; water bolted plant at base
Support- long-stalked plants might need support to stay upright
Space- plants for seed may need more space than for eating
Reserve some seeds for future planting and/or to compare to offspring
Observe- as you become a seed saver, you will learn by paying close attention to the plants at all stages
Protecting Diversity and Building Community
How can you achieve greater genetic diversity in your seed bank? Work with your neighbors to grow the same varieties and to let some or each variety go to seed. Harvest seeds together, process them together and store them together.
Saving Seeds of Herbs
Herbs do not have fruiting bodies.
Saving seeds of herbs is similar to saving seeds of vegetables like brassicas, where the plant develops a papery pod containing the seeds.
Steps:
Herbs for Seed Harvest
Basil- The challenge here is that basil leaves are bitter when you let the plant do to seed. So, plant a few extra, and let them go to seed. You will get a multitude of seeds and they will be viable for years.
Coriander (Cilantro)- These are very small plants; it’s easy and space-efficient to let a few plants go to seed. The seeds are an excellent spice when they are still green. They will dry on the plant and can be harvested brown to use for cooking or seed.
Dill- These seeds will reseed themselves readily in the garden if you let them. You can also harvest and dry the seed heads and use them in cooking or to plant.
Fennel- Sometimes fennel gets away from you and begins to bolt. Let it. And harvest the seed heads when they dry out. Use the seeds for cooking or planting.
Mustard- If you like mustard greens, you can easily let some of the plant go to seed and harvest the seeds to use in cooking.
Fenugreek – The leaves of fenugreek are edible and the seeds are a wonderful, sweet Ayurvedic spice.
Tulsi / Holy Basil – Often when I harvest and dry the leaves and flowers of Holy Basil, there are seeds mixed in.
Medicinals: Echinacea, Anise Hyssop, Calendula, Monarda, etc-
It takes getting to know these and all plants to know when to harvest for seed. Generally, I let the seed heads turn brown and then harvest them and put them.
Protecting Diversity &
Building Community
Since the beginning of agriculture farmers have been saving seed for the next growing season. With our shift away from gardening and sustainable farming, seed saving shifted to a corporate activity. All the while, some gardeners were saving their seeds. Since the resurgence of organic and sustainable farming, seed saving is coming back. We are blessed to have seed banks and companies specializing in open pollinated and heirloom seeds. And now, even small-scale gardeners are saving seeds.
Sharing and trading seeds is a very important aspect to protecting and sustaining the diversity of seeds. For urban gardeners, who have small populations, sharing seeds is even more important.
The Basics
Benefits of seed saving:
Diversity of species
Plants get to know their environment (they feel at home after generations)
Save money
Old varieties harvest may be spread over several years.
Heirloom Seeds: Seeds saved in the same location for generations
Seed Swapping: Introduces new genetic material into DNA. If you are saving from fewer plants it’s a good idea to swap seeds with someone else to introduce
Hybrids
They are the offspring of two “pure lines”, they are not open pollinated.
Offspring will be sterile or very different from parent.
Somatic fusion (genetic modification in which two species are fused together) is becoming more common in producing Hybrids and is acceptable under organic regulations (though has been categorize as GE by the German Federation of Plant Breeders).
Evolution of Species and Varieties
Many garden plants share the same species. All Brassicas are in the same species, for example. Over many years humans cultivated them to become different varieties by selecting specific characteristics (kohl rabi’s broad stem, broccoli’s tight buds).
Steps to Save Seeds
- Deciding which seeds to save- Contributing factors
Life cycle: Annual or Biennial
Selfing or Outbreeding
Self-pollinating species have little risk of crossing with other varieties.
Outbreeding species grown within certain distance may cross pollinate.
Distance
If you are growing outbreeding species for seed saving, varieties need to be spaced apart so that pollinators do not carry pollen from one plant to another. In the cities, there are many more obstacles and plants that might intercept the pollinators between yards.
Population Size
A greater diversity of genetic traits results in stronger offspring. What’s the ideal minimum population?
Species
To what species does it belong and what might it cross with?
Selection criteria and Disease
What traits are you looking to select for? What diseases is this plant susceptible to and do you need to avoid?
- Let some plants go to maturity and ripen seeds
- Test seeds for maturity
http://blog.seedsavers.org/assessing-seed-maturity/?_ga=1.102284295.72100924.1348678941
- Harvest Seeds
- Postharvest Processing
With Fermentation: tomatoes and cucumbers- to remove the germination-inhibiting sac surrounding the seed. Remove the seeds and place in a glass jar with a little water. Cover jar with cloth. Observe closely. *if the seed germinates now it won’t keep* when the coating is gone, the seed will feel rough to the touch (no longer slippery) and may sink to the bottom. Fermentation is complete when seeds have separated from the pulp. *Clean seeds* Dry as quickly as possible.
Without Fermentation: this process is to separate the seed from the fruit. The seed is rinsed in sieve under running water. May be soaked for 12+ hrs to release the fruit from the seed.
Dry Processing:
Seeds dry on the plant: beans, peas, grains, peppers
Dry seeds indoors: cut and spread on screens: brassicas, lettuce, arugula
Transplant to pots to finish ripening frost-free indoors
Dry harvested seeds: spread on screens, on towels, on plates and set in a place with low-humidity, good airflow, and under 95 degrees for a week.
- Threshing
- Winnowing
- Storage- check to see if seeds are true to type (compare to original)- color, smell, moisture; dry, cool (32-50), dark location; Label with location seed was grown, name of crop, variety, date of harvest; pest-free; air tight container
- Keep a journal – to track what you learn. Record varieties, locations, amount harvested, number of plants, pests or diseases, state of seed at harvest, how it was dried
- Seed viability- under ideal conditions, some seeds will last decades, some a few years.
Tips for Growing for Seed
Sun and warmth- more than usual for some plants
Nutrients- sufficient nutrients (not too much nitrogen)
Water- reduce watering after flowering period is over; for roots reduce water in fall makes for better storage; some crops should be covered with a tarp; water bolted plant at base
Support- long-stalked plants might need support to stay upright
Space- plants for seed may need more space than for eating
Reserve some seeds for future planting and/or to compare to offspring
Observe- as you become a seed saver, you will learn by paying close attention to the plants at all stages
Protecting Diversity and Building Community
How can you achieve greater genetic diversity in your seed bank? Work with your neighbors to grow the same varieties and to let some or each variety go to seed. Harvest seeds together, process them together and store them together.
Saving Seeds of Herbs
Herbs do not have fruiting bodies.
Saving seeds of herbs is similar to saving seeds of vegetables like brassicas, where the plant develops a papery pod containing the seeds.
Steps:
- Let the plant go to flower and then to seed.
- You can clip the seed head once it’s fully dried.
- Dry the seed head and/or the seeds on a screen or in a paper bag.
- Separate the seeds from the chaff as you would other seeds.
- Label and store in an airtight container as you would other seeds.
Herbs for Seed Harvest
Basil- The challenge here is that basil leaves are bitter when you let the plant do to seed. So, plant a few extra, and let them go to seed. You will get a multitude of seeds and they will be viable for years.
Coriander (Cilantro)- These are very small plants; it’s easy and space-efficient to let a few plants go to seed. The seeds are an excellent spice when they are still green. They will dry on the plant and can be harvested brown to use for cooking or seed.
Dill- These seeds will reseed themselves readily in the garden if you let them. You can also harvest and dry the seed heads and use them in cooking or to plant.
Fennel- Sometimes fennel gets away from you and begins to bolt. Let it. And harvest the seed heads when they dry out. Use the seeds for cooking or planting.
Mustard- If you like mustard greens, you can easily let some of the plant go to seed and harvest the seeds to use in cooking.
Fenugreek – The leaves of fenugreek are edible and the seeds are a wonderful, sweet Ayurvedic spice.
Tulsi / Holy Basil – Often when I harvest and dry the leaves and flowers of Holy Basil, there are seeds mixed in.
Medicinals: Echinacea, Anise Hyssop, Calendula, Monarda, etc-
It takes getting to know these and all plants to know when to harvest for seed. Generally, I let the seed heads turn brown and then harvest them and put them.